Styrofoam can be a great option for those looking for an inexpensive way to insulate their homes or businesses quickly and easily without having to put in too much work up front. Finally, although styrofoam may be relatively affordable upfront, many consider its short lifespan to make this type of polyurethane insulation less cost-effective over time compared with other materials such as fiberglass or wool batting. Additionally, some studies have found that polystyrene (the type of plastic used in most types of styrofoam) can leach toxins into the air over time if not properly sealed off from living spaces. This means you may need to replace your insulation sooner than expected if you opt for styrofoam. Over time, it can start to break down due to normal wear and tear or exposure to extreme temperatures. One of the primary drawbacks to using styrofoam is that it isn’t very durable or long-lasting. It’s also lightweight and easy to install, which makes it appealing from a cost perspective. Additionally, styrofoam does not absorb moisture from the air like other materials can, making it great for damp or humid climates. This makes it an ideal choice for areas that experience both hot and cold temperatures, as it will help maintain indoor temperatures more consistently throughout the year. The main reason why is styrofoam a good insulator and has become such a popular material for insulation is because of its ability to resist extremes in temperature. Let's take a look at why styrofoam is often used as an effective insulator, as well as some of the drawbacks associated with using this material. However, it’s important to know the pros and cons of using styrofoam as insulation before making a decision. This is the shop ceiling with moisture issues (black is not good).and a few weeks back now sealed with foam.Styrofoam is an extremely popular choice for insulating buildings, due to its cost-effectiveness and ease of installation. The vents were left to help reduce summer temps up there. Our attic is still vented, via roof vents, but there should be no warm air/moisture infiltrating at this point. Last winter we had frost in the attic and spring thaw leaks into the house.hence the spray foam. Where we had 24" or so of roof/ceiling at the 2nd story, foam was injected to fill these voids right to the top of outside walls. My shop roof is done this way, and the ceiling of our 100 yr/old house (balloon framed, plaster/lathe ceiling) is spray foamed from the attic side for air sealing. This method of insulation is now approved here in Canada. Moisture would end up condensing at the roof/deck insulation interface unless you stop vapor from getting there 100%. It is easily dented or punctured.Īs your roof deck is not ventilated at all, I see your only option as spray foam. It is similar to what is sometimes used for rectangular air conditioning ducts. After that, many people use something else to insulate.įWIW, the orange box sells a 4 x 8 foam insulation board with a reflective foil cover on it. Even just 1/2" to 1" will air seal, strengthen, and insulate. People seldom put on more than 2 " of spray foam because it is a little $pendy. It also holds your roof deck down during a hurricane. Some of the spray foam has a fire resistant composition. If you neglect to air seal, your insulation will not work well. It is wonderful for strengthening a structure, deadening sound, and air sealing. IIRC fiberglass for 2 x 6 walls gives about R of 19. If you use foam are you giving any thought to fireproofing it? That should answer your question about getting an R value of 38. Check it out on a big box store web site, I may be misinformed. I believe the best foam board has an R value on the order of about 3 per inch of thickness. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated! The required R-Value for our region is 38, however I expect to not be able to attain this with foam board but if I can get close I would be happy. My rafters are only 5 1/2 inches out from the wall and 21 ½ wide. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I should use for a radiant barrier foam board and how I should install it to prevent any problems to roof in the future? The Attic is about 400 sqft with 7ft of head space in the center. I considered pink fiber glass but I’m not finishing the walls straight away and don’t want to breathe in particals while hanging out there. ![]() Due to the cost of spray foam I’m leaning on foam board insulation with a radiant barrier. This attic has 6 inches of blown in of cellulous insulation under the floor boards so I only need to concentrate on the walls and the roof. I do not have sofit venting in the roof or where the attic floor meets the walls, I only have a fan on the side which sucks out hot air in the summer. ![]() I live in the Northeast and I would like to make my attic conditioned.
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